Guide · Siphon coffee
Siphon coffee (vacuum brewer)
A siphon, also called a vacuum coffee maker, vac pot or syphon, brews in two stacked chambers. Heat pushes the water from the lower bowl up into the coffee; when the heat comes off, the cooling lower bowl pulls the finished coffee back down through a filter.
How a siphon works
The lower bowl is sealed by the upper bowl's tube. Heating the water raises its vapor pressure and the pressure of the trapped air; once that exceeds the air pressure outside, water is pushed up the tube into the upper bowl. Water vapor is about 1/2000 as dense as liquid water, so the mixture expands quickly. Continuous heat holds a small pressure difference, about 1.5 kPa (0.015 atm), and keeps the water up while the coffee steeps just below boiling. Take the heat away and the lower bowl's pressure drops: the vapor condenses and the coffee is drawn down through the filter, leaving the grounds above (Wikipedia).
That makes the siphon a full-immersion brewer, like the French press, with a filter at the end; HARIO Europe notes that the water stays hot throughout. The moka pot uses the same vapor-pressure lift, but forces the water through a packed bed of coffee at higher pressure.
- Upper bowl, open at the top; the coffee steeps here.
- Filter (cloth, paper, metal, nylon or a glass rod) with a chain or spring hooked down the tube.
- Tube reaching almost to the bottom of the lower bowl.
- Seal where the upper bowl sits in the lower bowl's neck; without it, no pressure builds.
- Lower bowl: holds the water, and later the finished coffee you serve from.
- Heat source: an alcohol lamp, butane burner, gas or an electric heater.
- Heating raises the vapor pressure and air pressure in the sealed lower bowl.
- Once that exceeds outside air pressure, water rises; about 1.5 kPa of difference holds it up (Wikipedia). A little water stays below.
- With the heat lowered, the coffee steeps just under boiling: about 200 °F / 93 °C in Sprudge's method.
- Heat off: the vapor condenses, pressure in the lower bowl drops and the coffee is drawn through the filter, leaving the grounds on top. In Barista Hustle's tests this began when the slurry was about 91–92 °C.
Step by step
This method combines the published guides compared in the table below; the time on the heat is where they differ most.
- Weigh. A starting point is 1:16: Sprudge uses 35 g of coffee for 560 g of water. HARIO Europe's 10 g per 120 ml (1:12) makes a stronger cup. See the ratio calculator for other sizes.
- Grind medium to medium-fine. Sprudge describes a medium grind "like beach sand"; HARIO UK suggests medium-fine. On the grind size chart that sits with the medium rows, such as the SCA drip category.
- Prepare the filter. Soak a cloth filter in warm water, or rinse a paper filter under hot water. Feed the chain down the tube and hook it to the bottom.
- Fill the lower bowl with water already heated in a kettle; both HARIO Europe and Sprudge say this is faster. Dry the outside of the glass.
- Heat and seat. Light the burner and rest the upper bowl in the neck at an angle. When small bubbles rise from the chain, set it straight and press down gently to seal (HARIO Europe); Sprudge twists it in when the water is near, but not at, a rolling boil.
- Lower the heat as the water rises, so that it stays up: Sprudge turns the flame down until it is just visible.
- Add coffee and stir. Start the timer and stir gently until all the grounds are wet; HARIO UK says 3–5 circular stirs is usually enough. Adding the grounds cools the water by 2–3 °C, and it recovers in about 30 seconds (Barista Hustle).
- Steep. 40–60 seconds (HARIO Europe), 70 seconds (HARIO UK) or 2 minutes with a second gentle stir at 0:30 (Sprudge).
- Remove the heat. Give a few gentle stirs (HARIO UK: three) and let the coffee draw down; Sprudge expects about 1.5 minutes. A hard stir builds a dome of grounds.
- Serve from the lower bowl once the coffee has fully drained, after lifting off the upper bowl.
Published recipes side by side
| Source | Coffee : water | Grind | Time on heat with coffee | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| HARIO Europe | 10 g : 120 ml per cup (1:12) | not given | 40–60 s | water boiled in a kettle first |
| HARIO UK | 17 g : 250 g (15–17 g suggested, ≈1:15–1:17) | medium-fine | 70 s | 3–5 stirs at the start, 3 after the heat is off |
| Sprudge | 35 g : 560 g (1:16) | medium, "like beach sand" | 2:00 | 205 °F water; brew about 200 °F; drawdown about 1.5 min |
| HARIO USA, Morgan Eckroth | 36 g : 560 ml (≈1:15.6) | not given | about 2:30 total | — |
For comparison, the lab's filter ratio band is 1:15–1:18; most siphon recipes sit inside it, and HARIO Europe's per-cup recipe is stronger.
Temperature in the upper bowl
- Just under boiling. Wikipedia puts brewing slightly below 100 °C (212 °F); Sprudge aims for about 200 °F (93 °C) once the flame is lowered. Water boils at a lower temperature at altitude; the temperature converter estimates your boiling point.
- Stable, not falling. Unlike a pour-over, the temperature stays flat through extraction (Sprudge). In Barista Hustle's tests it kept rising slowly until the water in the bottom chamber ran low.
- More flame, more heat. A higher flame makes more steam and a hotter brew; seating the upper bowl too early or running the flame too low early on can leave the brew at the low end (Sprudge).
Filters
Siphon filters are cloth, paper, metal or nylon screens, or a glass rod (Wikipedia). HARIO's Technica siphons come with a cloth filter and its NEXT siphons with cloth and metal filters; paper filters are sold separately. Sprudge brews with paper and finds cloth impractical for regular use because of the cleaning involved. The glass filter rod was designed in 1932 by Raymond Kell of the MacBeth Evans Glass Company (Harris).
Safety
- Leave a little water in the lower bowl. HARIO Europe warns against dry heating, and Barista Hustle warns that a bottom chamber left to dry out completely can shatter.
- Do not fill an alcohol lamp to the top, put the flame out carefully and use oven mitts: the parts get hot (HARIO Europe).
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | Try |
|---|---|---|
| Water does not rise | Upper bowl not sealed in the neck | Set it straight and press down gently (HARIO) or twist to seal (Sprudge) |
| Water drops back too early | Heat turned too low; it is the heat that holds the pressure | Lower the flame only until it is just visible |
| Thin, sour, hollow | Under-extracted | Grind finer, keep everything else the same (Sprudge) |
| Bitter, harsh, astringent | Over-extracted | Grind coarser (Sprudge) |
| Drawdown stalls | Brewer filled near its capacity, or a hard stir domed the grounds | Brew a smaller batch; stir gently back and forth (Sprudge) |
| Brew seems cool | Upper bowl seated too early, or flame too low early on | Check with an instant-read thermometer before adding coffee |
| Lower bowl nearly dry | Too long on the heat | Take the heat away; never let it run dry |
A short history
| Year | Event | Source |
|---|---|---|
| 1827 | Johann Nörrenberg describes the vacuum coffee maker | Wikipedia |
| 1830s | Earliest glass vacuum pots in use in Germany, including one by Loeff of Berlin | Harris |
| 1835 | Louis François Boulanger files a French patent for a vacuum pot | Harris |
| 1840 | Scottish engineer James Robert Napier presents the side-by-side Napier vacuum machine | Wikipedia, Harris |
| 1841 | Mme. Vassieux of Lyon patents her double-globe glass balloon in France | Harris |
| 1915 | Corning introduces Pyrex heat-resistant glass, solving the cracking of early glass pots; Silex brewers use it | Harris |
| c. 1925 | Gerhard Marcks and Wilhelm Wagenfeld's Sintrax, made in heat-resistant glass by Schott in Jena, now in MoMA's collection | MoMA |
| 1930s–1950s | The most popular brewing method in American homes, from the early 1930s to the mid-1950s | CoffeeGeek |
| 1948 | HARIO's first siphon, the beginning of its coffee range | HARIO Europe |
| c. 1950 | A three-part Silex vacuum maker of this date is in the Corning Museum of Glass | CMoG |
| c. 2007 | Renaissance among coffee professionals | Sprudge |
Siphons fell out of everyday use in the West in the mid-20th century as too complicated for daily brewing, but stayed popular in parts of Asia, including Japan and Taiwan (Wikipedia).
Lab tip: time two things. Write down how long the coffee sits in the upper bowl with the heat on, and how long the drawdown takes. If the cup changes and the times have not, look at the grind.
Sources
- Wikipedia — Vacuum coffee maker (secondary: operating principle, pressure, brewing steps, filters, Nörrenberg 1827, Napier 1840)
- Brian A. Harris — The Historical Development of the Vacuum Coffee Pot (patent history, Loeff, Vassieux, Silex, Pyrex)
- HARIO Co., Ltd. — Coffee life: Syphon (brewing steps)
- HARIO Europe — An Introduction to Brewing with Siphons
- HARIO UK — Brew guides: Syphon
- HARIO USA — Morgan Eckroth: Syphon Brewing (recipe)
- Sprudge — How To Brew With A Siphon Coffee Maker (May 5, 2020)
- Barista Hustle — Syphon experiments with Diana Dolejsi and Gwilym Davies (upper-chamber temperature)
- CoffeeGeek — Mark Prince, siphon coffee guide (US popularity, early 1930s to mid-1950s)
- The Museum of Modern Art — Gerhard Marcks, Wilhelm Wagenfeld: Sintrax Coffee Machine, c. 1925 (114.1976.a-c)
- Corning Museum of Glass — 3-part Vacuum Coffee Maker, Silex Company, about 1950 (98.4.403)